Sarawak - Land of The Kenyalangs

Basically, Kuching is not really happening. The second day here, I was already planning to move out from the city and visit some traditional long houses there. I was told of this Sarawak Cultural Village at Damai which is an international attraction location. This place holds the annual event for the Rainforest World Music Festival. Also, this village gathers all the ethnic’s accommodation in Sarawak under one roof. Ranging from Melanau, Iban, Ulu, Cina, Melayu and etc.

It took roughly 45 minutes drive from the town to reach here.  With the picturesque view of the Mount Santubong nearby, I took a deep thought of making a detour to do hiking instead of visiting the village. However, reality sets in. We don’t want another tiring vacation ahead of our trip to New Zealand.

According to the Iban, ‘Si-antu-ubong’ means 'spirit boat' in their language. ‘Antu’ is ‘hantu’ in Malay which means spirit or ghost. Santubong are boat like coffins made from a single hollow log designed to represent the vessel in which a dead person will travel from this world to afterlife. It is true as there is a Santubong River nearby separating the whole Damai town from Kuching city. If you look properly on the map, the town where Mount Santubong sits on is actually an island on its own.

OK, there a saying in both Chinese and Malay. When you are abroad or in another villages, you have to eat and live like the people there. Therefore during my one day tour here,

I walked across the makeshift bamboo bridge.

Hunted using a blowpipe.

Acted playing the “sape”.

Learned the art of weaving.

Even showcased my skill in congkak, a traditional mancala game to Han Ching. In modern Nokia term it’s called Bantumi.

Long houses in Malay are built raised off the ground on stilts. This seems to have been the way of building accustomed to life in the jungle in the past. The design is brainy as being raised, flooding presents little inconvenience. Being raised too, cooling air could circulate underneath the floor of the dwelling. Livestock could shelter underneath the long houses for greater protection from predators and the elements.

Comfort aside, I really doubt how a few families can share the same dwelling area. When you farted, the whole people inside the long house will know it’s from you. And when you are being scolded by your dad, all the kids inside will know of your shame act. You have no privacy here mate.

While walking inside, don’t be shocked to find human skull being decorated on top of the roof truss. It’s a symbolic act for certain tribe. Some would hang the skulls of the animals they hunted. Well, come to think about it. If it is the skull of a human being, then you might guess that ‘they’ might have switched their ‘targets’. Full stop.  After seeing such an eerie thing, I was given another shock when I enter the Malay House.

Those who plan to visit here, please watch out for these two aunties. They are not wax figurines. Of course they are alive too. But just imagine while you are walking into someone’s houses. Out of the blue, the sound of traditional instrument breaks the silent in the room and the next thing you see are two figures singing to the melody of the music.  

To be frank, the staffs here are the local tribes. You can differentiate it easily. For me, the way they promote their items for sale can distinguish those who live inside the jungle and city. They won’t promote their item just like the sales promoters in tourist area back home.

When one is here, the cultural show is certainly something not to be missed. You always watch those hip hop dance, witnessing this traditional dance makes you want to take off your shoes and dance to the rhythm of the music played with them. Being here certainly encouraged me to bring our children in the future to learn the hardship of living without electricity, water and the trend nowadays Internet.