Food T(r)ail Of Feline City - Eating Out In Kuching

So, what food you need to try in Sarawak?

1.    Sarawak Laksa at Chong Choon Café at Abell Street

Sarawak laksa is a bit different from the asam laksa in Penang. Here, they put lots of pepper into it. I guess the famous place to get it is at Chong Choon Café. The locals like here as well. At Chong Choon Café, you can try their toast as well. Thumbs up for me. As for the Kolo mee, I guess every shops sell it. Though this shop belongs to a Chinese, don’t be surprise there are Malays eating inside it. Here, they serve no pork but with no halal logo. But, they don’t create much fuss here.

2.    Lao Ya Keng Food Court at Carpenter Street

You will hardly miss this shop. Shared the same compound of a Chinese temple, I found this shop from the tourism brochure of Kuching. When we were there, there were journalists interviewing the owner which reflects the popularity of the stall I guess. I find the fish cake and fish ball served to be very tasty, soft and tangy as well. Beside the noodle stall, stood one stall which sell pork satay. The taste is not bad if compared to the other type of meat I tried before this.

3.    Nasi tsunami at food court along Brooke Street

My brother told me to try out this rice before I depart to Kuching. He was there just one week before me. At first, I don’t fond of the name because when tsunami happened, it was a catastrophe event which claimed thousands of people lives being swept to the sea. To translate that scenario into dishes... urgh… Nevertheless, I still give it a try. Taste just like the Chinese version of Cantonese noodle gravy serves with rice. The food court here serves quite a variety of food ranging from western, Indonesian and Sarawak. Try their ‘midin’, a green jungle fern that grows in Sarawak is a must have vegetable here. Kuching is famous for salted ikan terubok as well. But be careful when you try it. Chinese has a belief that the tastier the fish the more bone it will have. This fish fits the bill. ‘Umai’ is also served here and it is basically origin from Iban tribe. To me, ‘umai’ is actually the local sashimi. Last but not least, give the 3 layers tea a try. With the milk (white), dark brown sugar, and tea (brown), it forms 3 colors in your drink.

(in response to Han Ching's comment)

Ayam pansuh is another typical dishes among the people in Sarawak. The dish is prepared by cooking chicken meat in a bamboo and stuffed with water (which later will be the soup), seasonings and covered with tapioca leaves (later could be eaten together with the cooked chicken). Though it is a signature dish, you hardly find it easily available as the way of cooking it requires time and of course bamboo. So, if the restaurant claimed that they serve this dish 24/7, ask them to serve with the bamboo instead of serving you on the plate. I was told that I need to make a reservation in a hotel restaurant in order to taste it. But when I ventured along the Brooke Street, there is a stall selling authentic ayam pansuh. How I knew that? They were setting up a fire and rows of bamboo were aligned the fire.

4.    Ayam Penyet at Simpang Tiga Street

As Sarawak is located near Kalimantan Indonesia, ‘ayam penyet’ has been absorbed into Malaysia lifestyle. The ‘Ayam Penyet’ franchise you get in Peninsular is not as tasty as the one I found here which was recommended by the reception lady in my hotel. Sometimes, to try to best local food around, you just need to ask the local people rather than believing what’s written in the tourism brochure. You see, the locals like me won’t go to Jalan Alor in KL to eat. Still, there are many tourists got “slit on their throats” there. Why? Because Lonely Planet told them so. As for the name of the shop, sorry as I forgot to note it down. What I can recall is this shop located a few blocks away from a Chinese restaurant.

5.    Lui Cha at Pisang Barat Street

Made famous by Axian. This is the only Hakka dish that does not involved meat. With a mixture of vegetables, beans and herbs, the strong smell of the mint leaf soup either make you loathe it of love it. If you want to be healthy and go smooth in the toilet after all the rubbish you gobbled down the day before, give this a go.

6.    Layer Cake from Aunty Cynthea at Kapor Street

The gift you shouldn’t miss bringing back home as souvenir is this. There are so many shops and stalls selling this cake. But which one serves the best when guys selling aphrodisiac medicine along the street sell layer cake as well. Different from Appollo layer cake, it is made from much denser and more layers of cake that are compressed and formed a rainbow color pattern. To me, Axian has shown me the best and most characteristic layer cake shop house. Meet Aunty Cynthea. When my GPS brought me in front of 2, Taman Top Green Literature Villa, Jalan Kapor, I cursed the GPS for not doing his job well. 

Luckily, we got Aunty Cynthia hand phone as well and decided to ring her. Soon, there’s one old lady opened the wooden door and wave at us. Shoot. The shop we were looking for is actually a double storey rich lady house. Yup, she sells layer cakes. We were invited inside and for the first time I spoke the most Cantonese language during my stay here. That aunty is a Cantonese. She was so kind to us and began to relate her humble stories which she was once asked to prepare 1Malaysia logo cake to the Prime Minister. Trust me; this aunty is no ordinary aunty. Her connection with the politician’s wives even is better that Streamyx line.

I found the Chinese food in Kuching has a lot of influence from the Hakka community while the Malay food has the influence from Kalimantan. When it comes to food, different people have different taste, view and judgment. Just like durian. I dislike it but others worship it so much. Even my blogspot spell check does not recognise the word 'durian'.

Miao Miao Trip - A Noon In The Museum

Woke up in the early morning on my last day only to find a ticket on my windscreen. It’s just like entering the office after one week posting only to know your colleague is leaving. Shoot. Offence? Parked at a restricted area without displaying parking coupon.

Luckily the penalty was not that pricey as it caused only a few bucks. Well, my girlfriend gave me the Chinese proverbs thingy again, “Just accept the loss of fortune as a sign of evading any body’s harm or injuries”. With basically nothing more to venture around and no more good food hunting, we decided to visit the places which our GPS labeled as “attraction” in the vicinity. It landed us at

Charles Brooke’s Museum.

Textile Museum.

General Post Office Museum

And basically any museums just to make full use of the car we had. From finding the longest roundabout signboard name (driver will get killed if they ever attempt to read the full name of it) to hunting down the renowned Fort Margherita. Yes. Hunt. That’s the correct word. Even with GPS, it won’t pinpoint you to this landmark. So, we decided to take a detour and gave ourselves a try on the boat ride crossing the Sarawak River. Inside the boat we managed to have a quick chat with the locals who told us that the Fort Margherita is just nearby. Soon, after reaching the opposite site of the river, the paddler offered us a ride to Fort Margherita using the dock which the locals normally used.

Sometimes we just need to do like the local to be a local. We reluctantly agreed to his offer. With him powered his engine, he soon navigated against the current to that “dock”. Before that, I must have a special mention on the engine he had modified you see. There is a raffia string attached to his driver seat which can turn the engine on and off. I was amazed with his modification work. You see I was in Indonesia to some pavement testing work using our generator-powered machine. Yet, I still need to get out from my car to start or off the generator. The way this paddler altered was like a smack on the heads for us. Complicated thing can be made looked so straightforward sometimes.

Anyhow, upon reaching the dock, I was flabbergasted to find the route leading to the fort. It was filled with shrub. With me wearing short pants and slippers and no one around, I decided to take a back turn. Instead, we walked to the other side of the fence and went straight to the Sarawak State Parliament Building “illegally”. 

My one penny worth advice. When you trespassed into someone’s garden just pretend to be a lost tourist. With camera on one hand, pretend to take some photos to avoid being nabbed by the guard. The last thing you need is to wave to the guard as if you are the relatives of the parliament members.

Feeling cheated and disgruntled, we decided to give our GPS another try. This time it was leading us to an uncharted road. At one junction, it ordered me to turn into a path that was blocked with heavy bushes. If I were to walk, definitely I will make a U-turn. But since I’m at the comfort side inside the car, we decided to give it try. After passing through the towering bushes, the majestic building of Fort Margherita stood right in front of us. The presence of the guard there ensured us that we are on the right track.

When we took a real closer look at this so-called attraction in Kuching, I was taken aback. The picture above says it all.

After all the GPS, boat ride, got cheated into a jungle trail, trespassing the parliament building, bypass the security officer, GPS again, and wading through the bushes, all we got was just a small old structure except that the paint has betrayed the real age of the building. With no proper signboard and car park, how on earth can one person ever get to go there if not of someone with high perseverance like me us. Completed in 1880, Fort Margherita commands a strategic position along the Sarawak River. The position of the fort had been carefully chosen, this being the most advantageous point from which to defend the town from possible attack those days.

Yeah right, getting here was even more deadly nowadays.

Bako National Park – On Stranger’s Tide

After visiting the Sarawak Cultural Village, there was no longer anything interesting about Kuching unless you take a flight to Mulu Caves which is a World Heritage site. We found that to be time consuming. Therefore, I decided to go to this Bako National Park with hope that it will offer me some greenery moment like my previous trip to Taman Negara and Kinabalu National Park. Upon reaching the entrance, we were told that we need to take a separate boat to the park. My initial thought was to drive to the location directly. Never had I thought I need to take a boat. Well, since I wasted 1 hour drive to the location, to back out is not an option. After a deep thought we decided to share a boat with a European couple and a sissy not-so-man Asian. Sitting inside the boat with the breeze brushing my hair was really relaxing.

With our boat gliding through the strong wave from the ocean, I was glad that I didn’t eat so heavy for my breakfast that morning. Everything looks smooth when all the sudden the engine of the boat turned off. We were in the middle of the sea with the sight of land a few nautical miles away. Han Ching looked at me and I turned to the middle aged man who navigates the boat behind us.

“Apa hal ye Encik? Enjin rosak ke?” I asked.

He lifted up his engine. Then he took out his oar.

(Usher’s OMG music playing behind the background again)

He started to paddle the boat. That European couple was mumbling in some accent which I was very familiar with and told Han Ching,

“Lauri”

No mood to entertain me, Han Ching asked the “captain” again anxiously.

“Tak ada minyak ke Encik?”

The old man then replied the water level is too shallow and the engine propeller will hit the seabed if he continued. Then he pointed to us that he was actually not paddling against the water but the seabed. We were in fact just 1.5 meter from the seabed. He told us it will take probably another one hour or so for the tide level to rise before he could use his engine again.

(Usher’s OMG music playing behind the background again)

I tried to calm down the panicked tourists on the boat. With the “tulan” faces shown by the boat members, the poor “captain” is pressured to lower back his engine into the water on an inclined angle upwards. He forced his way through the wave. Soon, he somehow managed to bring the boat back to life and in full speed. Within minutes, we reached our destination. We had to berth some hundred meters away from the shore as the boat is not the type which my colleague took for our company trip last year.

So, we had reached the island. What’s next?

I told Han Ching we should go for a trekking to see the sea stack which I came across on the Tourism Malaysia brochure. She reluctantly agreed. The one and half hour trek, Telok Pandan Kecil route is one of Bako's most famous (famous for torturing). It ascends the forested hills overlooking Telok Assam, reaching the plateau covered with scrub vegetation and continues along a sandy path lined with carnivorous pitcher plants before reaching a cliff top with stunning view of the secluded bay below the famous sea stack offshore. Yeah, to me it is so “stunning view” and “secluded” that another European couple swam naked on our way back when they thought no one is watching.

Walking across this trail reminisced us about ordeal in Mount Nuang and Mount Kinabalu. In Mount Nuang it was more to mentality. In Mount Kinabalu, it was more to endurance. In Bako, it was 70% Mount Nuang + 20% Mount Kinabalu + the scorching heat that we never had encountered before as there are no tall trees to block the sun away. After 30 minutes walk, I was beginning to weigh up some comforting lines in order to avoid a dressing-down by Han Ching. My determination of choosing this location has turned my vacation into some boot camps. Luckily we bought ample of foods from the canteen before the start of this trail. Had we not brought anything along, this will go down to Han Ching’s record as the “Top 10 things you shouldn’t do in Sarawak with your boyfriend" and she will used this over and over again whenever I suggest we do some trekking. A 10 minutes descent through cliff vegetation brings you to one of the beaches in the park.

The alleged beautiful view of the sea stack was not really as captivating as it looks on the picture. Darn Tourism Malaysia. The journey was so tiring that we were contemplating to call our original sopir to fetch us from the beach we were now at even if we need to pay extra cash. *@#$%. Our hand phone had no lines! With no chicken exit, we trudged our way back to the distressing trail. When we reached back to civilization, we were so exhausted and pale-looking as though we had just been cursed by the Black Pearl. Surprisingly, Han Ching didn’t condemn me for forcing her to finish up her 2 years exercise quota in one day on our way back. After all, that was my big day that day.

Phew!

Sarawak - Land of The Kenyalangs

Basically, Kuching is not really happening. The second day here, I was already planning to move out from the city and visit some traditional long houses there. I was told of this Sarawak Cultural Village at Damai which is an international attraction location. This place holds the annual event for the Rainforest World Music Festival. Also, this village gathers all the ethnic’s accommodation in Sarawak under one roof. Ranging from Melanau, Iban, Ulu, Cina, Melayu and etc.

It took roughly 45 minutes drive from the town to reach here.  With the picturesque view of the Mount Santubong nearby, I took a deep thought of making a detour to do hiking instead of visiting the village. However, reality sets in. We don’t want another tiring vacation ahead of our trip to New Zealand.

According to the Iban, ‘Si-antu-ubong’ means 'spirit boat' in their language. ‘Antu’ is ‘hantu’ in Malay which means spirit or ghost. Santubong are boat like coffins made from a single hollow log designed to represent the vessel in which a dead person will travel from this world to afterlife. It is true as there is a Santubong River nearby separating the whole Damai town from Kuching city. If you look properly on the map, the town where Mount Santubong sits on is actually an island on its own.

OK, there a saying in both Chinese and Malay. When you are abroad or in another villages, you have to eat and live like the people there. Therefore during my one day tour here,

I walked across the makeshift bamboo bridge.

Hunted using a blowpipe.

Acted playing the “sape”.

Learned the art of weaving.

Even showcased my skill in congkak, a traditional mancala game to Han Ching. In modern Nokia term it’s called Bantumi.

Long houses in Malay are built raised off the ground on stilts. This seems to have been the way of building accustomed to life in the jungle in the past. The design is brainy as being raised, flooding presents little inconvenience. Being raised too, cooling air could circulate underneath the floor of the dwelling. Livestock could shelter underneath the long houses for greater protection from predators and the elements.

Comfort aside, I really doubt how a few families can share the same dwelling area. When you farted, the whole people inside the long house will know it’s from you. And when you are being scolded by your dad, all the kids inside will know of your shame act. You have no privacy here mate.

While walking inside, don’t be shocked to find human skull being decorated on top of the roof truss. It’s a symbolic act for certain tribe. Some would hang the skulls of the animals they hunted. Well, come to think about it. If it is the skull of a human being, then you might guess that ‘they’ might have switched their ‘targets’. Full stop.  After seeing such an eerie thing, I was given another shock when I enter the Malay House.

Those who plan to visit here, please watch out for these two aunties. They are not wax figurines. Of course they are alive too. But just imagine while you are walking into someone’s houses. Out of the blue, the sound of traditional instrument breaks the silent in the room and the next thing you see are two figures singing to the melody of the music.  

To be frank, the staffs here are the local tribes. You can differentiate it easily. For me, the way they promote their items for sale can distinguish those who live inside the jungle and city. They won’t promote their item just like the sales promoters in tourist area back home.

When one is here, the cultural show is certainly something not to be missed. You always watch those hip hop dance, witnessing this traditional dance makes you want to take off your shoes and dance to the rhythm of the music played with them. Being here certainly encouraged me to bring our children in the future to learn the hardship of living without electricity, water and the trend nowadays Internet.

Cats City - No Dogs Allowed!

My trip to Kuching is the next stop due to my impulsive buying of Tune Hotel 1 cent per room promotion. Yup, my accommodation in Kuching for 3 nights cost me just RM15 per person. With my hardworking of staying up late in Bangkok, I even managed to land a super deal of Airasia flight of RM 80 return ticket per person.

The name of the city, Kuching, is thought to derive from the Malay word kucing, which meaning cat. Many of the locals refer to Kuching as the "Cat City" but it more likely comes from the Chinese word for port ("cochin") coupled with the Malay name mata kucing (cat's-eye) for the longan fruit, a popular trade item back then. Anyway, Kuching or Anjing, PETA activists please be rest assured that no one eats cat or dog meat here. Frankly speaking, I didn’t encounter any cats too during my stay here.

This time around, I decided to get a rental car from my experience in Kelantan. Hertz was running a deal of RM88 per day. For a Hyundai Matrix it was considered a bargain when other competitors are giving Kancil for the same price. I encountered a witty quote of the day on my arrival at the hotel front desk. The Tune Hotel brochure is quoting Malaysia’s famous blogger Kenny Sia from Kuching,

“When I closed my eyes, every hotel is the same”.

Located opposite Hilton Hotel, the Tune Hotel even pokes fun on their neighbor in their leaflet which listed down 10 things you must do in Kuching.

No. 3. Stay in Tune Hotel Kuching and laugh at the guest staying opposite for paying such a high price!

The place I stayed is within walking distance from the Kuching Waterfront, the central of night activities for the locals here on weekend. It’s fun to see the kids coming out with their parent playing the LED snowflakes that are being shot to the skyline. It does give some sense of Avatar feel planet. I wonder will the kids in the future shoot Angry Birds up to the skyline instead. But who will become the pigs?